For a 40th birthday gift, The Chef was kindly given a voucher for the Raymond Blanc restaurant Le Manoir Aux Quatre Saisons. It has taken us 5 months to actually get a table, which says much about the popularity of the two-Michelin starred restaurant.
Berthing my MINI in a sea of Bentleys, BMWs and ridiculous bling 4x4s, it was clear that we were entering the realm of the British Upper-Middle-Class. Try as we might to think class distinctions are unimportant these days, it’s hard to not feel uneasy at the thought that you might be lower down the class rankings than everyone else in the room. British class distinctions are ridiculous and anachronistic, but they’re still here.
Walking through the abundant gardens, where the restaurant grows its own organic vegetables and herbs, it was clear that we could forget all about food miles and pesticides. Entering the restaurant we were greeted by what seemed like 20 different people – the IKEA model of staffing levels has thankfully not reached Le Manoir yet.
The Sloth has been to a few restaurants where snooty staff spoiled the experience, but the staff of Le Manoir struck the right balance between professionalism and snootiness. Not once did I lift my finger to refill my water glass, and when I returned from powdering my nose, my chair was pulled out and my napkin placed on my lap. Every dish and glass of wine was announced with flourish.
The other diners ranged from regulars dripping with money to first-timers out for a celebration, just like The Chef and me, which set us at ease. Even so, here are some snippets of conversation we overheard:
- “I’ve got the most boring job in the world. I’m a Swiss private banker.”
- “Whenever I’m in Barbados, I take my boat out fishing.”
- “Is that off Madison? That’s the same place I get my hair done when I’m in New York!”
The clientele were not being pretentious, this was just their lives. I do hope they were not made too jealous if they overheard our discussions about our fabulous careers in middle management and our terraced house in E17.
We chose the “Notre Menu Decouverte”which is a 10 course menu of small dishes described as a “voyage of discovery with new flavours and textures” and this description was apt. Most of the dishes were simply astounding. The menu in full:
1: Cornish crab, avocado, grapefruit jelly
I have never tasted crab as fresh and delightful as this before, and the grapefruit jelly reminded me of Silver shred marmalade, which is a compliment!
2: Confit of Landais foie gras, soused cherries; fresh cobnut and toasted sour dough bread
An incredibly rich and creamy foie gras, but was it worth the suffering? Answer: no.
3: Glenarm” Scottish salmon cucumber and wasabi; Oscietra Caviar
Resembling sushi, it was a shock to realise that the salmon was in fact warm, yet it had kept the light gelatinous texture of raw salmon. How they did this I have no idea.
4. Broken free range “Wytham” hen egg; watercress; fresh walnuts
A soft boiled egg which tempted you to make soldiers, the real star of this dish was the tantalisingly fresh watercress.
5. Pan-fried seabass and langoustine, smoked mash potatoes and red wine anis jus
Perfect seabass and a creamy mass, the simplicity of which was nicely complemented by the spicy gravy with anis.
6. Roast Anjou squab, caramelised sweetcorn, bacon popcorn
Anjou is pigeon, and the delicate flesh was contrasted superbly with sweet flavours including a custard style sauce and the superb caramelised sweetcorn.
7. Cheese course
From the board our tastebuds tingled to goats cheese, a rich brie and the deep flavour of 18-month matured cheddar, the finest cheddar I have ever experienced.
8. “Kaffir” lime leaf and coconut tapioca, passion fruit and banana sorbet
Remember tapioca from school dinners? I failed to taste any coconut but the powerful sweetness of the passion fruit gave a satisfying sugar rush
9. Tiramisu flavours, cocoa sauce and coffee bean ice cream
Essentially a very small portion of tiramisu with coffee ice cream a million miles away from the stuff you buy in the supermarket.
10: Valrhona “Araguani 72% ” chocolate mousse, lemon butterscotch sauce and almond milk creme glacee
An intense mousse present in a crisp roll shell, and though I usually hate anything almond based such as marzipan, I readily devoured the refreshing creme glacee.
11. Cafe “Pur Arabica”, petis fours et chocolats du Manoir
We moved to the lounge for our coffee which was served with smartly presented chocolates.
The Chef’s wine:
- Riesling “Cuvee Frederic Emile” Alsace 2003
- Vin Du Pays du Val de Monferrard 2004
- Vin Du Pays de l’Heiault 2003
As you can imagine, 11 courses and 5 hours later, we had a distinct Christmas day feeling. Was it all worth the average monthly budget to feed a family of four? Maybe. But it certainly rates as one of the most memorable culinary experiences in my life so far.